Archive for November, 2007

When the Heart Breaking is Yours…

Friday, November 30th, 2007

So much to say. So few words to adequately convey. And so much yet to come. Please allow me simply to describe.

I arrived at the church headquarters about 11, passing through a good portion of Khartoum to get there, in a typical little Sudanese rental van. I walk in through the little gate, over the dirt paths, and enter a plastered room with around 100 chairs set up. At the front is a rough wooden pulpit with a red cross hewn in the front, and our team heads towards it, taking the seats in the front.

One by one the pastors enter, resplendent with handshakes and smiles, many asking with excited, broken English how our trip to Kadugli went. They take their places, standing for the opening prayer, in which my limited Arabic only recognizes one word - “Shukron,” or “thank you.” After the prayer of thanksgiving, they join together in praise that easily transcends all language barriers; the Spirit of the Lord is present.

A frail, white haired elder named Samuel rises to his feet and totters to the front, starting with a Scripture: “He that sows with tears,” our translator tells us, “will reap with rejoice.” With that introduction, Pastor Samuel shares the history of the Sudanese Church of Christ, the Baptist movement in Sudan that began in 1904. He tells the story with a clarity and detail borne out of the simple fact that he was there. No, not back in 1904, though he looks old enough to have been alive then, but as the church blossomed and grew he was there. He was the one who turned himself in, going to the police, sacrificing his own freedom to advance Christ’s cause–and he was the one miraculously saved by the power of God.

An hour and a half later, he has not lost his audience. They still hang on each word, but our time is drawing to a close, but much is yet to be done. Our team has not come empty-handed; far from it. Bicycles are brought in, a gift to their pastors to allow easier transportation. And then I am allowed to stand and give a short introduction to the gift I have brought from the churches in the United States. It’s a small gift, an envelope with a $10 bill for each pastor, not much money perhaps, but hopefully an encouragement and a way to alleviate the expenses they have incurred to come to Khartoum.

But before I can give it out, another elder, a grey-haired man of wisdom rises and shuffles on deformed ankles to the front. “I do not want to take time,” he says, “but I feel led of the Holy Spirit to share. In my old age, when I look at my church, I think of it as an orphan, a child that is left without father or mother. It cannot think, it cannot live by itself…”

His words trail off into a flood of tears.

“In short,” the translator takes over, “He wants to express his thanks for your cooperation with us as a ministry. He was especially touched by Brother Gabe’s news that the church in the United States is praying for the church in Sudan.”

And the gift I hold seems completely inconsequential compared to that gift, the gift of prayer.

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We had to leave the service quickly, due to fear of an impending riot over the teddy bear incident. We have been completely unaffected by the riots that did take place in downtown Khartoum; please pray that this safety continues.

I was asked to share a short background on Sudan for a homeschool speech club meeting, which I was delighted to do. The file was too big to e-mail, though, so I post it here. Enjoy!

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sudanbackground.mp3

Kadugli via Photo Essay

Thursday, November 29th, 2007

Seeing as I have taken well over 700 pictures in the last two days, I think it is about time I shared a couple of them. Please join me on our excursion to Kadugli… (By the way, you can click on these pictures to see a larger version, and if you would like some more detailed trip background, read today’s Weekly Reminder.)

Travel

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Travel to Kadugli is excruciating, and worse on the second time around. Last time I went to Kadugli, the misery was lessened by the experience of it all, but the second time through, with the newness worn off, there is nothing but a camera and an MP3 player to take the mind off of the pain.

But the views are gorgeous, and the villages and people unforgettable.

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And we can always haul food off of the roof of the Land Cruiser.

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Our motel in Kadugli. This one had a roof, which I took for granted until the next hotel. Take it from me, though–Orion is beautiful.

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Ministry

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The excruciating travel was not without reason, of course. Remember is partnering with two other organizations to serve the people of the South Kordofan state. As always, Remember seeks to serve the persecuted church, with a focus on the widows and orphans of martyrs, so our specific goal is to build a safehouse, storage facility, base of operations, clinic, and potentially even a school to serve the Christians in this area.

We were able to see the land that has been given to start the project, and to dedicate it to the Lord’s work.

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And no building plan would be complete without some measuring and searching for supplies!

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Church

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The highlight of this short trip to Kadugli was stopping in at the local church. They sang for us, and showed us great welcome, and though we could not understand each other, the fellowship was sweet.

They had 5 Bibles for the church.

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People

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When you drive for 13 hours across a significant chunk of Africa’s largest country, you see lots of people. And in the final analysis, that is what really matters; people are, by necessity, the heart of ministry. They are the heart of ministry because they are God’s heart. For God so loved the world…for all their familiarity, those are profound words.

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From the rising of the sun…

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…unto the going down of the same…

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…the LORD’s name is to be praised.

Psalm 113:3

Day 2: A Few Shots

Monday, November 26th, 2007

Today was preparatory, with many hours spent waiting for unbelievably slow bureaucracy. But praise the Lord, we are cleared to leave for Kadugli tomorrow.

I did manage a few pictures, though, so enjoy.

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One thing that has been fun this week has been our drivers. I know I’ve said it before, but our drivers these days have been in a class by themselves–two days, two drivers, two tickets. I didn’t even know they enforced traffic laws here, but they do.

The first ticket was rather run-of-the-mill, as our driver simply failed to maintain the registration on his car. Boring, but a hassle, as the white-clad Sudanese traffic guard waved us off to the side of the road, and we sat there until the ticket has been written.

Today’s ticket, though, was far more fun. I was sitting in the front seat next to the driver, so I had a great view of the excitement. We were wending our merry way through the crowded streets in typical Sudanese style, which is at its core chaotic, frustrating, and occasionally terrifying. As we approached a traffic guard, I noticed he was holding up his hand, giving us the “stop” sign. I also noticed that our driver wasn’t stopping. I thought that was weird, but I have trouble understanding their hand signals, so I dismissed the weirdness as quickly as successive thoughts.

When the traffic cop hauled off and whaled the windshield, though, I didn’t dismiss it. And when he followed that blow with a right hook to the driver’s side door and a flood of angry Arabic, he certainly had my attention, and he got our driver’s attention too. We pulled off to the side of the road as the Arabic tirade continued, but it wasn’t just the officer–our driver had his fair share of angry words. I have no idea what they said, but I was just glad it didn’t come to blows.

We kind of snickered at the tirade, and the driver got out, returning after a minute with his pink slip. We laughed outright, though, when he berated the officer as he pulled out. I don’t know what his beef was, but I was sure we were going to get another ticket for his behavior. And I wasn’t about to defend him…

Tomorrow, Kadugli. Catch you all on the flipside.

Khartoum, Day 1

Sunday, November 25th, 2007

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Today has been a truly blessed day. We had a good rest, a good breakfast, an edifying planning conversation between three different ministries–and that was before we left our rooms.

After that we visited the churches, celebrating this Lord’s Day with them. And what a celebration; these believers give new meaning to the words “raising the roof.” Though one church’s rudimentary sound system was broken, it could have fooled me. And though I could not understand the words they were singing, preaching, and praying, the excitement in their midst crossed all language barriers. They are excited to be a part of the Kingdom of Christ, excited to have us worship with them, and excited about the ministry prospects that we have to assist them.

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The first church that I visited was smack-dab in the middle of what was essentially a refugee camp, a place where Nuba Mountain families that need to find work have relocated. It was, quite simply, the most vile place I have ever been in, filled with trash and flies. But in the middle of it rose a sanctuary, and from that sanctuary came joyful singing that overcame all of the filth.

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This church is that pastored by Brother Yagoub, a man who is fast becoming not just a ministry contact but also a good friend. He joined us in South Carolina for our banquet, and gave the testimony for Sudan. He is well thought of here, and for good reason. I had the privilege of sharing a few greetings with the members of the church–hundreds of them–and cannot tell you how much I enjoyed hearing their enthusiastic praise, and the opportunity to share greetings and Scripture with them.

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Outside the church were a bunch of little kids, the grimiest, dirtiest, snot-nosedniess little urchins you can imagine. And you can bet that they multiplied in a huge hurry when I broke out my bag of peppermints and Jolly Ranchers. But the closer I got to them, and the brighter their smiles became, the more my heart broke to see children in such a situation, surrounded by stench and filth. The one little guy didn’t even bother to brush the flies away from his face, and there they congregated.

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The most memorable moment of the day was a very personal one. Throughout the day, as I shared greetings with churches, Brother Yagoub specifically asked me to share my age and marital status. I thought that was a strange request, to be honest, but whenever I would share them it would get a good laugh out of the group, so I complied. As we headed out to dinner he told me why he had asked that, explaining, “There are not many young men in the Sudanese church that are your age, and unmarried, with such responsibilities. They think, ‘Oh, I am not 30 yet,’ and do not get involved.”

Being that example is one of those things that makes it all worth it.

(More pictures over on Ambassadors.)

A Recipe for that Khartoum Smell

Saturday, November 24th, 2007

One of the potentially overwhelming parts of international travel, for those of you that didn’t know already, is the weird smells in the atmospheres of strange places. Bangkok, as an example, is an indescribable mix of putrid trash, taxi fumes, and overcooked chilis.

Khartoum, though, is easier to describe, and I believe that if you wish to engage in this olfactory experience you can simply cook the following.

Preheat your oven to 450 degrees.

Mix:

1 Pound red sand.

6 Tablespoons of motor oil.

3 Tablespoons of grimy, polluted, trash-filled water (preferably flowing down from Cairo).

Bake until you can clearly smell each ingredient when you open the oven door. Serve by sprinkling empty candy wrappers to taste and garnish with a sprig of savanna grass.

We have safely reached our destination in Khartoum, with travels that were as smooth as could possibly have been expected. Since our accommodations for most of this trip have come complete with wireless internet, stay tuned for more to come.

Thanks for your prayers.

***UPDATE***

As my sharp-eyed readers no doubt noticed, the Nile actually flows north from Khartoum into Cairo, not the other way around. This oversight was undoubtedly the result of yesterday’s travel stupor, and this morning’s cold shower caused me to come to my senses. The upshot of this upflow is that the Nile here is infinitely cleaner than the Nile there, but it still manages to add an air of putrescence to Khartoum’s olfactory ambiance.

The Feast Before the Fast

Friday, November 23rd, 2007

I love Thanksgiving.

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This Thanksgiving feast is particularly momentous, as I prepare this afternoon to leave for Sudan. Our pickings will be slim on the culinary side of things, so I packed some goodies…

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Your prayers are greatly appreciated. More to come.